Frequently Asked Questions

At least 3! Hermit crabs are social animals and need companions. Despite their name, they are NOT solitary — a single crab will be stressed and unhealthy. Start with 3 and make sure you have enough space (10 gallons for 2-3 small crabs, add 5 gallons per extra crab).

Yes! They're fascinating, low-maintenance compared to many pets, and can teach responsibility. However, they do need specific conditions (temperature, humidity, proper substrate) and they're not cuddly — they're more of a "watch and learn" pet. Adult supervision is recommended for setup and maintenance.

With proper care, hermit crabs typically live 10-15 years in captivity. Some have lived 40+ years! In the wild, they can live over 70 years. If a crab dies within months, it usually means the care conditions weren't right.

Pet stores, reptile expos, and online breeders. Avoid crabs sold in painted shells at tourist shops — those shells are toxic and the crabs are often in poor health. Look for active, curious crabs with natural shells.

24-29°C (75-85°F). Create a gradient with a warm side (27-29°C / 80-85°F) and a cool side (24-26°C / 75-79°F) using an under-tank heater on ONE side. Never use heat lamps — they dry out the air and kill humidity.

75-85% relative humidity. Below 70% causes respiratory distress because hermit crabs breathe through modified gills that need moisture. Use a digital hygrometer to monitor, mist if needed, and cover 80-90% of the tank lid to retain moisture.

A 5:1 ratio of play sand to coconut fiber (eco earth). Depth should be at least 3x the height of your largest crab (minimum 15cm / 6 inches). It needs to be moist enough to hold its shape — "sandcastle consistency." This allows crabs to dig and molt safely.

YES! You need TWO water pools — freshwater AND saltwater. Use marine salt mix (NOT table salt) for the saltwater. Both must be dechlorinated. Each pool should be deep enough for your largest crab to fully submerge. Change water weekly.

Yes! They love fresh fruits like mango, coconut, apple, banana, grapes, watermelon, and berries. Avoid excessive citrus. Always wash fruit thoroughly and remove any pesticides. Cut into small pieces and change daily to prevent mold.

Avoid: citrus in large amounts, onion, garlic, anything with pesticides or chemicals, table salt, processed foods, dairy, and anything with preservatives. When in doubt, stick to natural, organic options.

Absolutely! Calcium is essential for healthy exoskeletons and molting. Provide cuttlebone (best option), crushed eggshells, oyster shell, or coral sand. Keep calcium available at all times — crabs will eat it when they need it.

Offer fresh food daily and remove uneaten food each morning to prevent mold. Variety is key — rotate between fruits, vegetables, proteins (dried shrimp, mealworms), and always keep calcium available.

Almost certainly NOT dead — it's probably molting! Hermit crabs bury underground for weeks to months to shed and regrow their exoskeleton. NEVER dig them up — disturbing a molting crab can kill it. Be patient and trust the process.

Signs of pre-molt: cloudy or dull eyes, lethargy, excessive digging, eating and drinking more than usual, ashy/gray exoskeleton, and sometimes limb twitching. If you see these signs, make sure conditions are perfect and leave them alone.

NO! Crabs eat their shed exoskeleton — it's packed with calcium and essential nutrients they need to harden their new shell. Leave it in the tank. It will disappear on its own.

It varies hugely — from 2 weeks for small crabs to 2-3 months for large ones. There's no fixed timeline. The crab will resurface when it's ready. Don't worry unless you notice a strong fishy smell (which could indicate the crab has died).

NO — painted shells are toxic and dangerous! The paint chips off over time, crabs ingest it, and the chemicals can cause organ damage. The paint also prevents proper gas exchange through the shell. ALWAYS use natural shells. If your crab came in a painted shell, offer natural alternatives immediately.

At least 3-5 empty natural shells per crab in various sizes. Crabs like to have options! Popular types include turbo shells (most popular, round opening), babylonia (spiral), pica (colorful), and murex (decorative). Boil new shells before offering them.

This is an EMERGENCY. A naked crab is extremely vulnerable and stressed. Immediately: provide multiple clean shells nearby, reduce light, minimize noise and handling, ensure humidity is high, and mist gently. If it doesn't re-shell within hours, isolate it in a small container within the tank with shell options.

Yes! Hermit crabs can regenerate lost limbs during their next molt. Keep the crab's environment stress-free, ensure good nutrition (especially calcium), and the limb should grow back — often appearing as a small gel-like limb first, then fully forming after another molt or two.

Could be pre-molt (check for signs listed above), sleeping (they're nocturnal!), or stressed. Check all parameters: temperature (24-29°C / 75-85°F), humidity (75-85%), fresh food, clean water. If everything checks out, observe for a few days before worrying.

Hermit crabs chirp (a cricket-like sound) when they're stressed, annoyed, or disturbed — usually by another crab. It's a "leave me alone" signal. If chirping is frequent, check for overcrowding, shell competition, or a molting crab being bothered.

If your crab shows signs of serious illness: persistent lethargy, refusing to eat for weeks (when not molting), unusual discharge, strong smell, or parasites. Find an exotic animal vet in your area. Not all vets treat hermit crabs, so call ahead.